A vintage size label is a poor substitute for a tape measure. Cuts and sizing vary, and a garment may already have been altered. Save the measurements of a similar piece that fits you before you start looking.
Take measurements you can compare
Lay a favourite jacket flat and measure its shoulders, chest and length. For trousers, note the waist, rise and inside leg. Keep a photograph showing where you measured. When buying online, ask the seller to measure in the same way.
Allow room for how you want to wear the piece. A coat measured over a thin shirt may feel quite different over winter knitwear. For an unfamiliar cut, a try-on or a clear returns policy is worth having.
Inspect the places that wear first
Look at underarms, cuffs, elbows, pocket edges and the seat of trousers. Open the lining where you can see it without pulling. Check for holes, stains, brittle fabric and missing fastenings. Ask to see a costly item in natural light.
Price repairs before counting a bargain. Replacing a button and rebuilding a lining are different jobs. A simple hem may be possible; changing a shoulder can be much less straightforward. If the fit depends on a major alteration, get a tailor's opinion first.
Check the terms before paying
Ask which faults are already reflected in the price and whether the sale is final. If a label or history adds to the price, ask what supports that claim. A logo alone is not proof of authenticity.
Keep the seller's care notes. Check the material, condition and care label before cleaning; do not put an unfamiliar old fabric straight into a hot wash. Budget for professional advice when the label is missing or the fabric seems fragile.
